Thermaltake TRUE Copper
This is a discussion on Thermaltake TRUE Copper within the Air forums, part of the Cooling category; Hi all!
Just picked up this massive 1,9Kg (4,19 oz) copper radiator from Thermaltake (TRUE Copper).
It didn't come with any fans (luckily), but it ...
6Likes
-
1
Post By cralor
-
1
Post By cralor
-
1
Post By miahallen
-
1
Post By EnJoY
-
1
Post By The Duke
-
1
Post By Neuromancer
-
Thermaltake TRUE Copper
Hi all!
Just picked up this massive 1,9Kg (4,19 oz) copper radiator from Thermaltake (TRUE Copper).
It didn't come with any fans (luckily), but it can support up to two 12mm if needed.
But the whole point for me is to use an AMD Athlon II x4 620 cpu in a "moderate" overclocking setting". I.e 250 HT, 1,392/1,41V.
Does anyone know if I could do it w/o any fans? Or maybe even clock iy more? I have an ASUS M4A785-M mobo, and it has been a dream to work with,but maybe I should consider the airflow over the NB/RAM-chips with such a cooler?
It would be brilliant if it works out as planned,and since these monsters go for just 250NOK (48,72USD) here now,I'm considering buying two-three more for future projects.
And I could always sell them at the scrapyard,and get my money back, and maybe even earn a few cents on the copper price. Hehe 
Merry Xmas, everybody btw!
-
I'm going to say that fans are necessary no matter what setting you have. Especially for overclocking, you will NEED fans!!!
Just the other day I had a friend running his H50 (water loop) and did not realize he had his fans off. He was idling at 60C... even then that is with the water cooling pump still flowing!!
-

Originally Posted by
cralor
I'm going to say that fans are necessary no matter what setting you have. Especially for overclocking, you will NEED fans!!!
Just the other day I had a friend running his H50 (water loop) and did not realize he had his fans off. He was idling at 60C... even then that is with the water cooling pump still flowing!!
Ok, thanks for the help, but (please forgive my lack of knowledge) do you mean fans on the cpucooler itself or fans creating an airflow through the cabinet so the radiator maybe could get enough airflow and heat moved away? I guess I'll just have to try and monitor the temps as I start the OC'ing? My biggest concern is how it can move the heat from the cpu to the radiator, but with 6 heatpipes, that should probably work well. ;-)
Merry christmas to you.
-
Hey chiron. On any heatsink you use, a fan should be attached to it one way or another. CPUs almost always come with a heatsink with the CPU itself. This is usually a fan/heatsink combo pre-attached. Both case and "CPU cooler" fans are necessary.
If you have purchased a heatsink for your CPU, but it did not come with fans, then you need to attach at least one fan to one of the sides of the heatsink (usually using the included fanclips from your heatsink).
I hope this clears some things up for you.
-
+1 to what cralor said....some heatsinks are designed to be used with very little airflow (without a fan attached directly), but the TRUE (copper or not) is not one of them....it really needs direct airflow
-
I'm scruffy.

Originally Posted by
miahallen
+1 to what cralor said....some heatsinks are designed to be used with very little airflow (without a fan attached directly), but the TRUE (copper or not) is not one of them....it really needs direct airflow

120x38mm SanAce's in push/pull are ideal for a TRUE.
Follow TechREACTION On Twitter.
"I do not fear a man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once. I fear a man who
has practiced one kick 10,000 times." - Bruce Lee
-
TR Staff

Originally Posted by
EnJoY
120x38mm SanAce's in push/pull are ideal for a TRUE.
+1
If you are not wannting to use fans you could always try to lap the base. to drop a few more C. Although, I would at least use 1 fan just to be safe, but thats me.
-
TR Staff
A Single rear 120mm exhaust fan ducted through the heatsink might be a better cooling option then many of the marketed "passive" coolers on the market, simply because of size. Copper fins however are not as efficient at releasing heat as aluminum (which is normally why expensive heatsinks use a copper base and pipes and aluminum fins).
Copper absorbs heat better aluminum dissipates it better.
It might be possible on a low OC to get decent temps during the winter, with air being both drier and cooler, in a passive style setting especially in an area like yours. Running passive (or extremely low flow) in the summer however might be much more difficult.
Ultimately what the others suggested with THAT cooler is correct. More airflow with the tight fins and all copper design is best.
Beer drinking is like finger painting. When you are young, you do not care what you stick your fingers into as long as you got to do it. When you are older, eww Heineken? I really want a beer that comes from the factory skunked?
TRN Modder's Club
-
Thanks for all the help, everybody! ;-) I have used a rear fan- until now, but I'll follow your advise and put on a 120mm in "very-slow-mode" just to transport air from it's fins.
Best regards from
Chiron
-
TR Staff
how have your temps been for the past 2 years lol
Similar Threads
-
Replies: 10
Last Post: 04-15-2010, 07:13 AM
-
Replies: 2
Last Post: 03-31-2010, 12:45 PM
-
By invalid_character in forum Science & Technology
Replies: 1
Last Post: 02-22-2010, 04:36 PM
-
By invalid_character in forum General Chat & Discussion
Replies: 4
Last Post: 10-16-2009, 08:34 AM
Search tags for this page
cooler+master+notepal u3
,
thermaltake true
,
thermaltake true copper
,
thermaltake true copper for sale
,
true thermaltake
Click on a term to search for related topics.
Tags for this Thread
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules